Not Your Frat-Boy Fleece
PHOTO: @BILLIEILISH INSTAGRAM
Designers are pushing fleece for fall, but will consumers take the bait?
‘Tis the season for apple picking and pumpkin-spice sipping, which means it’s also time to pack up your Levi’s 501 shorts and cheeky Frankies bikinis in lieu of Everlane cashmeres and Steve Madden boots meant for crunching on newly fallen leaves.
No fall outfit is complete, however, without the jacket to end all jackets. The Fall 2019 runway collections offered oodles of possibilities, including sharp suit jackets from Saint Laurent and broad-shouldered beauties from Givenchy. Now that fall has actually arrived, designers are throwing one more option into the ring: the fleece.
The Massachusetts-based textile manufacturer Malden Mills began experimenting with the material, made from polyester fibers, in the 1970s. Nearly a decade later, the company partnered with Patagonia, which at the time specialized in mountaineering outerwear, to create the Synchilla jacket. Fleece revolutionized outdoor apparel, but its lightweight and inexpensive cost also made it a popular component of everyday ensembles.
Since 1985, Patagonia has modified their Synchilla Snap-T Pullover several times and added variations like the Retro-X jacket and Better Sweater to their fleece flock. This year, Patagonia introduced new members like the “Woolie Fleece Pullover,” made from a wool and nylon blend and the “Divided Sky Jacket,” composed of 100% recycled polyester. Their popularity transcends social group, as they remain in-fashion among fraternity brothers and investment bankers, hardcore hikers and soccer moms, a fact that the company attributes to their comfort and wearability.
“The Retro-X Jacket and Better Sweater are staples in my closet too along with many of here in the office when the fall and winter season arrive,” says Christine, a Customer Service Representative with Patagonia. The Better Sweater is definitely one of our best sellers as it's a great piece to wear for casual wear and can be dressed up for something a bit more appropriate in the office. Its versatility makes it a great staple in the closet.”
The “frat-boy fleece” is distinguishable for its snap or zip neck, small breast pocket and open-ended stomach pouch, but brands are experimenting with that blueprint through larger, more prominent pocket placements and fastenings-turned-accents. Sandy Liang — whose name has become synonymous with out-of-the-box outerwear since the debut of her label in 2014 — peppered her Fall 2019 Ready-to-Wear collection with pockets. The black Frey Fleece features two large silver “moiré” pockets on the chest and right sleeve which are piped with neon pink stitching. There’s also the Milo Fleece, which pairs forest-green fleece with a leopard chest pocket. Leopard also has its moment in Free People’s pocket-friendly fleece line. Enter the Queen of the Jungle Fleece, whose leopard print provides a base for prominent electric green front pockets.
Juxtaposed to the utilitarian elements finding their way to fleeces are their new whimsical shapes. Free People has turned fleece into loose-fitting trench coats with oversized buttons and collared patchwork parkas. One Liang look featured a traditional quarter-zip fleece, embellished with the Sandy Liang insignia, attached to a plain black skirt to create an effortlessly chic athletic dress. The fleece dress also appears at Phillip Lim, where one Instagram post features a model swathed in creamy fleece, so that she resembles a newly formed cloud. Another post shows off a puffy high-necked Sherpa vest.
Together, these modifications to the frat-boy fleece reflect an industry-wide embrace of oversized women’s fall fashion and the equal prioritization of comfort, practicality and style. Take Billie Eilish high-necked parka moment on the cover of Elle, for example, or Nicki Minaj’s collaboration with Fendi, which features hot-pink everything and variations on whatever-keeps-us-warm winter clothing. By adopting the basic premise of the Patagonia staple — also synonymous with Wall Street bankers and New England universities — and adding complex design details, designers are projecting the message that women can be completely covered (read: swaddled) in fleece blankets but still project power, sophistication and a keen sense of self-awareness.
Although designers and celebrities are fawning over experimental fleece at the moment, it’s unclear whether consumers will follow suit. After all, fleece is made from plastic, and with sustainable fashion becoming an increasingly frequent topic of conversation, consumers must decide if fleece is worth it. For now, designers are using the material to create powerful, whimsical and oh-so-cozy garments, inviting their clients to embrace the fashion risk.
